Thanks to everyone who submitted questions via the Facebook group and Instagram! If you asked a question that isn’t answered below, I still have a list of questions to answer in the future.
Do you use third party lenses?
Sigma and Tamron make great sharp lenses that are cheaper than their Canon or Nikon equivalent. I have personally used the Sigma 150-600mm but quickly sold it after seeing how it was not quick to focus in low light. If you aren’t shooting before sunrise or after sunset, then you may be happy with it.
I used the Sigma 24mm f/1.4 for a while for landscapes, and it’s a great alternative to the much more expensive Canon version.
I do have to share that I have seen a couple of Sigma 150-600mm lenses fail on my workshops. Either they won’t focus at all, or the focus is mis-calibrated enough to affect the image significantly. Those people say they won’t buy third party again.
If price is a factor, you shouldn’t hesitate to buy used lenses. I have purchased from keh.com for my big lenses. I have also bought used on Amazon, but you should purchase from Prime sellers that allow for free returns just in case something is not as described. Even the “bargain” quality lenses have no defects on the glass. They may have scratches on the body, but image quality is unaffected.
What are the differences between using an extender and a longer lens?
I prefer to use a combination of a good lens and extender together for versatility. When the light is low, you can use the wider aperture of the lens – whether that’s f/4 or f/2.8. If you need the extra reach you have the option to use the extender. Always go with the extender before deciding you’ll just crop the image later.
For the record, longer lenses are meant to be used to frame tight shots at a medium distance. They aren’t meant to capture things at a far distance, though if you have no other choice that’s what you have to do. Too much distance adds atmospheric problems into your image and no lens can fix that.
If you’re using a long lens with a relatively small aperture like the 150-600mm with a crop sensor (giving you effectively 900mm+), you really shouldn’t be considering adding an extender for better reach. That particular lens may work with an extender, but your autofocus speed will drop significantly if it even works at all. The viewfinder will also be much darker. Other than a few specific species (small birds that you can’t approach), you don’t need much more than a lens/camera/extender combo of 800mm or so.
What’s the best way to get a blurred background in a distracting environment?
The three factors that affect your depth of field are focal length, aperture, and distance to subject (as well as distance to background and foreground).
A longer focal length or wider aperture are both going to give you a smaller depth of field.
Also the closer you are to your subject, the smaller the depth of field will be. Even at f/16 you can get a completely blurry background if you are close enough.
Both of the below examples are shot at f/11 and 800mm. The difference between the backgrounds is how far away they were. The closer your background is to your subject (focal plane), the more in focus it will be.
If you have anything like leaves or branches right around your subject, they are going to be in focus because they are in the same focal plane. No amount of aperture adjustment or lens choice can fix that. You just have to find the subject in an area with a less distracting background and foreground.
One tip to covering up a distracting environment is to find something like leaves or bushes and have them close to your camera lens to create an out of focus foreground. You have to experiment with the best placement, but ideally you’d have them everywhere except directly over the subject.
This effect was achieved entire in camera, by photographing at a low angle through golden colored grasses. It simplifies the color palette and softens the foreground/background.
What’s the best setup for someone just starting out?
Budget is a huge factor in choosing your gear, but if you really want to get serious with wildlife photography you’re going to have to invest.
The Canon 77D or 7D Mark 2 are two good starter cameras that have enough features to photograph birds in flight.
The Canon 400mm f/5.6L is a very light lens that is excellent for handholding for birds. It lacks image stabilization but you don’t need it if you’re using the high shutter speeds required for fast wildlife. This lens can be found for under $1,000 used.
The Canon 100-400mm is another great starter lens that’s a little more versatile and features image stabilization (though more expensive).
Nikon has similar options in the D7500 and D500 for cameras, and the 200-500mm lens.
With a crop sensor camera and 400-500mm lens, you really shouldn’t have a need for a extender (teleconverter) yet. They work best on prime lenses with an f/4 or wider aperture, though I believe the 100-400mm and 200-500mm both take extenders with decent results.
What equipment do you use in Yellowstone?
Almost all photos on my Facebook page include the camera, lens, and settings used. Below is a short list of what I use most of the time.
SanDisk Extreme Pro memory cards
Something that a lot of people think is necessary, but it’s really not, is a tripod. Unless you’re using a slow shutter speed, doing video, or you physically can’t hold your lens for more than a few seconds, a tripod is not a requirement for getting sharp photos.
I almost never use my tripod, even handholding down to 1/100th of a second. At shutter speeds that slow, you’ll get less keepers but still can get sharp photos. If you shutter speed is faster than the length of your lens (400mm = 1/400th), then you don’t need to worry about camera shake causing blur.
How often do you use apertures wider than f/5.6?
Wide apertures like f/4 and f/2.8 are great for shooting in low light without needing to use a higher ISO. My current wildlife lens setup is f/4 (400mm) at the widest or f/5.6 with the 1.4x extender. Most of the time I have the extender on so I’m limited to f/5.6.
If I use the 2x extender, I may even use f/11 aperture for the best sharpness with that combo.
If you are mostly shooting during the daylight hours, you’ll be perfectly fine shooting at f/5.6 or f/8 all the time. It’s times of low light around sunrise and sunset that you’re going to really benefit from a wider aperture, especially if you need a fast shutter speed.
Another advantage of f/2.8 or f/4 apertures is you’ll see a much faster autofocus speed. The more light you can provide your sensor, the better the autofocus system can work. Put on a wide angle f/1.4 lens and you can focus in near darkness!
Next Q&A
Have a question for me to answer? Submit them in the comments below! Preferably they should be related to wildlife, but other genres may be helpful for general help as well.
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Using a 7DM2, Sigma 150-600, 200 iso I will still get a noisy photo at times. I am wondering how aperture and shutter speed affect the noise in a photo.
We will be in GTNP and YNP Sept 7-21, this will be our 3rd trip. Would really love to see and capture long exposure of the night sky, looks like moon phase may play a huge factor. Open to suggestions, should I try shortly after blue hour?
TSize…when you have time explain about frequency of getting the sensor/camera cleaned. you’ve mentioned it a few times…how does one tell when its time?
I want to buy a starter camera to photograph wildlife. I live in New Hampshire where I see black bears often. I got too close to one who growled at me so I need a good camera to keep myself safe. I frequently go to the Tetons and Yellowstone too. What would you recommend I buy? Thank you.
Recommendations for a starter camera are in this post.
Did you ask a question on post processing?
I use a Tamron 150-600 zoom lens for shooting birds on the move. I used to have a 100-400 Canon zoom. It takes a while to get used to hand-holding, and I rarely use a tripod anymore.
Do you perform focusing micro adjustments on your lenses?
I have before but it’s not required now with mirrorless. Canon has a worksheet here on how to do it: https://cdn.static-bl.com/images/manual/Canon-AF-Micro-Adjust-Guide.pdf
I would love it if you could talk about shooting in the rain. What do you do differently, how do you protect you equipment, do you have a different approach to getting good shots?
Thanks for the info on lenses to use in wild life shooting, I found it very helpful, because I do shoot fast moving wildlife.
Do you use back button AF? Why or why not?
For extreme wide angle what ND Filters do you use? if any? Thanks
Hopefully I explain or ask this in a way that makes sense.
I have heard photographers talk about adjusting settings in there camera or fine tuning settings in there camera for individual lenses to get sharper photos.
Do you do this?
Does this make a difference?
If you shoot a higher end camera and L series Lenses does it still make a difference?
How do you do it?
Do you have any idea what I am talking about? LOL
William I have heard of this myself, but sorry I don’t know how it’s done.
I believe you’re talking about the AF Microadjustment. Lens quality doesn’t affect it since it’s inside the camera. Canon has a worksheet to show you step by step how to do it – https://cdn.static-bl.com/images/manual/Canon-AF-Micro-Adjust-Guide.pdf
Thank you so much for sharing this information! I really enjoy seeing the photos that you post!
Good format, Trent!
You answer questions pertaining to Canon and Nikon but what about Sony. I shoot birds in flight and need some advice on what focus area is best.
The tips are not specific to any camera brand.
Start with AF-C and Wide if your subject is in the wide open (not much in the background but sky). If there is a lot of background you could try AF-C and Flex Spot (M). Play around with your setting some as well. Also study up on tracking and lock-on features of your Sony camera as it could help too. Lots of fun experimenting with all the camera features packed into all these cameras.
Thanks for your Q&A ‘s! Do you handhold or use a monopod/tripod. If you are not handholding what head do you prefer and why?
Photographing flying birds, practice practice?
Do you use a lens filter for extreme lighting conditions? If so what would you recommend?
At my workshop with you in May I used a Tamron 150-600 zoom lens. Is a fixed lens (maybe with a converter) better for long range wildlife photography?
I want to buy a starter camera to photograph wildlife. I live in New Hampshire where I see black bears often. I got too close to one who growled at me so I need a good camera to keep myself safe. I frequently go to the Tetons and Yellowstone too. What would you recommend I buy? Thank you.